Ilford RC Paper

8x10 Pinhole Camera and Double Exposure

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I haven’t done a lot of work with a pinhole camera lately but looking at this image makes me feel inspired to break out the 8x10 pinhole camera and take it for a spin. This image was made under bright sunny conditions on an 8x10 piece of Ilford RC paper. I metered the exposure at ISO 3 and exposed for about ten seconds with the model in the frame, and then another ten seconds with the model out of the frame.

Photographed with an 8x10 pinhole camera and Ilford RC paper.

Pinhole photography has always been very hit or miss for me. For every frame that I enjoy, there are probably about twenty that I don’t. That might sound a little defeatist but in a way that is something I actually like about it. The bad images can be a little discouraging, but when I get an image that I really like it feels like I did something extraordinary. Plus it can be really nice working with paper negatives. It keeps the costs down to a minimum which allows a bit more freedom to experiment.

Imperfection With a Paper Negative in the Darkroom

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I’ve mentioned on this blog before that I sometimes like to work with Paper Negatives. When using the Large Format 4x5 camera, paper negatives can be a great way to make images in a very economical way. A sheet of darkoom paper is still pennies on the dollar when compared to the traditional film one would typically load in a camera.

Photographed with a 4x5 View Camera and Ilford RC 4x5 Darkroom Paper

Paper negatives come with two challenges in particular. First, the effective ISO of paper is very slow. I typically expose at ISO 2 or 3 depending on how harsh the light is. This means very very slow shudder speeds at times. Part of the reason most of my portraits using paper negatives are so soft is because it is nearly impossible for the vast majority of people to hold completely still over the course of one or two full seconds. Second, paper negatives tend to have a lot of contrast in the final results. I find this is alleviated to a great extend by simply diluting my paper developer far more than I typically would when making a print from a negative. This tends to result in a more muted effect.

A third challenge with paper negatives can be illustrated in the image that comes with this post. When a lazy photographer such as myself isn’t paying much attention during development paper can get stuck together in the tray. This will result in uneven development as not enough chemistry reaches the paper emulsion. I’m considering this example to be a happy accident. I like the way the top of the model is brighter than the lower half. It’s an interesting segmentation.

That’s what I’m telling myself anyway.